We are thrilled to announce our collaboration with the prestigious Cosmetology Center of the University of Ferrara on the occasion of the launch of the new Pigment BioComplex line.

Dermatological tests for sensitive skin , conducted at their cutting-edge laboratory, represent a fundamental step to guarantee the safety and efficacy of our products, an essential value for Luce Beauty.

We had the pleasure of interviewing Dr. Leda Montesi , coordinator of the Cosmetology Center, who spoke to us in depth about sensitive skin and the importance of dermatological tests to ensure its protection and well-being . 🩺

What criteria determine skin sensitivity?

“Sensitive skin is defined as skin subject to unpleasant sensations such as tingling , burning , pain , itching or tingling in response to stimuli that normally should not cause such sensations. We cannot speak of sensitive skin when these unpleasant sensations are attributable to the presence of any skin disease.

In addition to the unpleasant sensations, the skin may also appear red or have a normal appearance.”

“Sensitive skin can be present anywhere on the body, but the most common location is the face. This is due to an alteration of the hydro-lipid film and the skin barrier that covers our skin.”

What is your dermatological testing protocol for sensitive skin? What makes it more reliable and different from other methods?

“Making the diagnosis of sensitive skin is the most complex part. For this reason, it was necessary to start by studying what is already present in the literature and from which we decided to extrapolate and study the most significant tests. Among the various protocols used, we chose, with the dermatologists of the Cona hospital (FE) and with the opinion of the University Ethics Committee , to combine two tests and both must be answered positively to be considered “stinger” (sensitive). The diagnosis is based on anamnestic data through the use of self-assessment tests and on skin trigger tests, among the most used is the lactic acid test (“stinging test”). “

How do you ensure that a product is safe and effective for people with sensitive skin?

“Speaking of certainty in every context is risky. Following the New Regulation 1223 of 2009, all cosmetic products should now be safe and effective based on the claims reported on the label: this is why specific safety and efficacy tests are carried out with well-defined protocols by contacting reliable laboratories and universities.

For those with particularly sensitive skin, however, it is always advisable to first do a test on the forearm and use products that are explicitly tested on sensitive skin.”

How can academic research support innovation in the cosmetics industry, especially in the formulation of products for sensitive skin?

“As far as we are concerned, we analyse the products before the skin irritation tests (patch tests), in order to carry them out in the most appropriate way and consequently we support the companies by re-evaluating the formula in case the test is not passed. Furthermore, we are trying to highlight other criteria that can make the evaluation of sensitive skin even more detailed.”

What makes some ingredients more suitable than others for sensitive skin and more effective at reducing irritation and skin reactions?

“Even in this case, the New Regulation mentioned above comes to our aid, where there are lists of substances that are prohibited or otherwise limited in use, such as a long list of potential allergens that is continually evolving. The most suitable products for sensitive skin are therefore those containing dermo-affine substances, i.e. ingredients suitable for restoring the functionality of the skin barrier.”